I plan your journey personally and guide you along the way.
Maroantsetra, at the head of Antongil Bay, is my home base. I have guided travelers through the forests of northeastern Madagascar for more than 27 years, and I still find something fascinating every time I enter them.
Much of the wildlife here is hard to spot. A chameleon can vanish into the leaves, a gecko can look exactly like bark, and a lemur may be heard long before it is seen. I love sharing those moments with the people I guide.
- Local knowledge
- Based in Maroantsetra, with firsthand knowledge of the forests, rivers and coastal routes.
- Personally planned
- Journeys shaped around your interests, pace and available time.
- Wildlife expertise
- Forest walks focused on the details, sounds and wildlife that are easy to miss.
Wildlife worth looking for
Discover the wildlife of northeastern Madagascar, from elusive leaf-tailed geckos to lemurs calling in the canopy. Explore where we may encounter them. Every sighting depends on the conditions and a little luck.
White-fronted brown lemur
Look for
- Habitat
- Nosy Mangabe and the forests of the Masoala peninsula
- Field note
- Males have a thick white head and ruff; females are grey-brown with no white. Groups call to keep in contact, and a call can be the first sign they are near.
Eulemur albifrons
Black-and-white ruffed lemur
Possible to encounter
- Habitat
- Nosy Mangabe, where a population lives on the island
- Field note
- A large fruit-eater, critically endangered. Its loud chorus carries far through the forest; fruiting trees are the best place to wait.
Varecia variegata
Leaf-tailed gecko
Elusive
- Habitat
- Tree trunks in lowland rainforest
- Field note
- Leaf-tailed geckos rest flat against bark by day, where their colour and skin fringes break up their outline. They are mainly active at night. The species in this photo has not been identified.
Uroplatus (genus)
Leaf chameleon
Elusive
- Habitat
- The leaf litter of the forest floor
- Field note
- Leaf chameleons include some of the smallest chameleons in the world, and many are coloured like dead leaves. At night they often roost on low stems. The species in this photo has not been identified.
Brookesia (genus)
Panther chameleon
Look for
- Habitat
- Forest edges, gardens and open ground around Maroantsetra
- Field note
- Colours vary from region to region, and animals from the Maroantsetra area are known for theirs.
Seen around Maroantsetra and along forest edges.
Furcifer pardalis
Madagascar paradise flycatcher
Look for
- Habitat
- Forest and forest edges
- Field note
- Males can carry very long tail streamers. Watch for a flash of rufous and white crossing the trail.
Terpsiphone mutata
Barringtonia
Look for
- Habitat
- Riverbanks and coastal forest
- Field note
- Several Barringtonia species flower at night, and their blooms often fall by morning. The species in this photo has not been identified.
Seen around Maroantsetra and along forest edges.
Barringtonia (genus)
Your journey. Your Madagascar.
Every journey begins with what interests you: wildlife, remote forests, island camping, mountain trails or a slower exploration of the region. Choose what draws you in, and discover which destinations may suit your journey.
Choose your interests
Choose as many as you like. The destinations that suit your choices light up.
Destinations that fit
All five destinations- FlightsFlights from Antananarivo are limited, often once a week, and schedules change. Check the current timetable before booking.
- Boats and canoesTravel times on this page are approximate and depend on weather and conditions.
- Planning helpI can help you plan your days around the flights.
Destinations from Maroantsetra
Three very different places within about two hours by boat or canoe, and two remote expeditions beyond.
- Maroantsetra, home base
- By boat or canoe from Maroantsetra
- Separate expedition
- Markers show each area approximately; lines are illustrative, not routes or trails
15.50° S, 49.77° E
Nosy Mangabe
An island wilderness within easy reach
Dense rainforest rises straight out of Antongil Bay, with coastal trails, beaches, and wildlife that is relatively easy to reach in a small area.
Staying overnight means camping on the island, with the forest all around you after dark.
- Getting there
- About 30–45 minutes by boat from Maroantsetra, depending on conditions
- Overnight
- Camping on the island; I confirm current arrangements when we plan
- Landscape
- Island rainforest, beaches, waterfalls, and rock carvings left by Dutch sailors
- Wildlife
- White-fronted brown lemur, black-and-white ruffed lemur, leaf-tailed geckos; the aye-aye lives here but is rarely seen. What we see depends on season and luck.
15.62° S, 50.12° E
Masoala National Park
Where the rainforest meets the Indian Ocean
Vast lowland forest runs down to the coast here, home to a remarkable diversity of rainforest wildlife.
You can stay at one of several forest lodges, and longer treks across the peninsula are possible for those who want them.
- Getting there
- About 1.5 hours by boat from Maroantsetra to the park’s coast, depending on conditions
- Overnight
- Forest lodges; I confirm availability when we plan
- Landscape
- Lowland rainforest, coastline, mangroves and marine reserve
- Wildlife
- Red ruffed lemur, a signature species of Masoala; helmet vanga; leaf-tailed geckos; tomato frog
15.44° S, 49.84° E
Farankaraina
Life along the river
Travel by river from Maroantsetra, passing forested banks and communities connected by water. Farankaraina offers a different perspective on the region, where everyday river life meets the surrounding forest.
- Getting there
- About 1 hour by motorized canoe from Maroantsetra, depending on the river
- Overnight
- Ask me about the current options
- Landscape
- River, villages, riverside landscapes and nearby forest
- Wildlife
- Lemurs, chameleons and forest birds in the nearby forest
15.15° S, 49.38° E
Makira Natural Park
A remote forest expedition
One of Madagascar’s largest protected forests, inland from Maroantsetra.
Reaching it is an expedition in itself, and the route depends on where we enter the park.
- Getting there
- Varies by entry point; we plan it together
- Overnight
- Expedition arrangements, confirmed when we plan
- Landscape
- Remote inland rainforest and rivers
- Wildlife
- Indri, red ruffed lemur and the rare silky sifaka live in the park; which of them we may encounter depends on the exact area we visit
14.45° S, 49.75° E
Marojejy National Park
Mountain rainforest in the far northeast
Steep forested mountains rise to 2,132 m.
Marojejy is a separate journey, overland toward the Sambava and Andapa region, rather than an excursion from Maroantsetra.
- Getting there
- Separate overland travel toward Sambava and Andapa
- Overnight
- Park camps and local accommodation, subject to arrangements
- Landscape
- Steep mountain rainforest, rivers and summit trails
- Wildlife
- Helmet vanga and Marojejy mantella frog; the silky sifaka, rare and found only in some areas
15.43° S, 49.73° E
Maroantsetra, my home base
The anchor for most journeys
Nosy Mangabe, Masoala and Farankaraina are each within about two hours of Maroantsetra by boat or canoe, depending on conditions. A week in the region may allow you to explore more than one of them.
Makira and Marojejy are different: remote expeditions with their own travel, which we plan separately.
Select a destination on the map or the list.
Compare access and overnight options
| Destination | Getting there from Maroantsetra | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| Nosy Mangabe | About 30–45 minutes by boat from Maroantsetra, depending on conditions | Camping on the island; I confirm current arrangements when we plan |
| Masoala | About 1.5 hours by boat from Maroantsetra to the park’s coast, depending on conditions | Forest lodges; I confirm availability when we plan |
| Farankaraina | About 1 hour by motorized canoe from Maroantsetra, depending on the river | Ask me about the current options |
| Makira | Varies by entry point; we plan it together | Expedition arrangements, confirmed when we plan |
| Marojejy | Separate overland travel toward Sambava and Andapa | Park camps and local accommodation, subject to arrangements |
Plan with Emile
Tell me about the journey you have in mind using the form. I will reply personally. If you prefer, email me directly.
- emilesrafara@gmail.com
- Phone
- +261 32 42 185 72
+261 34 23 557 74 - +261 34 23 557 74
How planning works
- Email me what you hope for. Dates, group size, interests, and how much comfort and activity you like.
- I suggest a journey. Which places, what each day involves, how we travel and where we sleep.
- We agree the details. What is included, what to bring and the price, before anything is booked.
- We meet at the starting point. For most journeys that is Maroantsetra. We agree on guiding and local arrangements for each part of the journey.
Good to know before you travel
- Getting here
- Maroantsetra is reached by domestic flight from Antananarivo, usually once a week. Schedules change, so I help you plan around the current timetable.
- Seasons
- Rain is possible in any month. Humpback whales are in the bay from June to September.
- Fitness
- Boat trips and short walks suit most people. Treks mean long days on muddy, uneven trails; I match the journey to how you walk.
- Included
- It depends on the journey. I list everything (guiding, boats, meals, camping or lodging) in the plan I send you.